Gifting the Third Goal

I wrote this post before leaving for Christmas vacation (I’m back HOME for a few days, meeting the newest member of my family)! If all goes according to plan, it should be published the day after Christmas, so as to not spoil any surprises from under the tree!

Peace Corps’ third goal is to share host country cultures with Americans back home. Thus, I offer you some of Moldova’s best, which yesterday you would have found under my family’s Christmas tree.

House wine and a single shot glass:

This wine is a gift from my oldest host brother, Mulțumim Vitalie! Typically, Vitalie bottles at least a portion of his wine in glass bottles, but he is one of the few that practices that for house wine. To be perfectly honest, most simply can’t afford it. What you see here is quite typical, a recycled plastic water bottle that he has filled from the barrels in his cellar. Everyone in Moldova will tell you that their house wine is the best. Though, I’ve had Vitalie’s several times now and the pitcher always seems to run dry...

The shot glass is something I purchased at the local market for three Moldovan lei ($0.24 USD). I procured this glass to accompany our wine because, as explained before, one glass is really all you need! Passing the wine is a customary. It doesn’t really matter if the guests are attempting to leave your house after a feast, it doesn’t matter if people are headed to a wedding celebration next, or if you are the host/hostess and you are exhausted. The passing of wine completes any engagement.

One person, usually the head of the household, is in control of the wine pitcher, and a circle is seamlessly formed. The controller of the pitcher will take a shot of wine and give an event appropriate toast. Toasting to health and happiness is always appropriate, but if it’s a wedding celebration,  then most people toast to lots of children, health for those children, and for the bride to acquire all the skills of a good housewife.

After that person drinks his/her shot, the glass is refilled and handed off to the next person. And so the passing of wine goes until at least one pitcher has been emptied. If people are having a good time....it’s always easy to run to the cellar and fill another!

Hand woven carpet:

Given the number of sheep in Moldova, it’s no wonder that carpet-making is held in high-regard. In most Moldovan homes, carpets cover both the floors and walls.

This carpet is small, so I don’t imagine my mother will hang it on a wall anytime soon, but it was custom made for her by an acquaintance of mine, Ecaterina Popescu. Check out her site here, in Romanian or English, but be sure to have your pop-up blocker disabled. Hoping that my Mom will actually display the carpet (either in this house or a retirement cabin on a lake in the woods), I asked Ecaterina for something incorporating the color blue and one of her less busy patterns.

It’s winter time too, so check out the snowy carpet washing I learned from my host family.

Chocolates and tea:

Moldovans love their novelty chocolate and their tea. There is really only one candy company from Moldova, so that is where I collected this variety of sweets to share with friends and family back home. I also snagged some “Green Melissa.” Melissa is a fragrant herb that many women grow in their gardens for tea. Unfortunately, this Melissa isn't originally from Molova, but I think the idea still counts (Russian, I believe). 

Sometimes when people ask me to repeat my name, I say to them “Melissa, you know…like the tea.” 

Feasting during fast

As per Orthodox custom, we host a special meal each year to commemorate the death of Maria's husband. Last year, we held the event on the actual anniversary of his death. But a combination of things prompted us to have the "praznic" early.

First, the praznic is required for the first seven years after someone dies. This is the seventh year, and as such, there are a few extra customs, including a home visit by the priest to carry out a few of the appropriate rituals. Since Costel died on January 7, Orthodox Christmas, the priest would be unavailable to come to our home if we waited to do the praznic in January.

Interestingly enough, we decided to hold the praznic during the 40-day fast leading up to Christmas. During this time, many Moldovans adhere to a strictly vegan diet. No meat. No sour cream. No homemade cheese. 

The vegan twist on Maria's usual fair limited the number of fried foods that would be gracing our table, so most of it was actually cooked on our wood stove, or what we call our "soba."

Stewed potatoes and mushrooms in place of fried meat dishes.

"Sarmale" or "Galuși" prepared without meat.

White beans with sauteed onions and tomatoes in leu of what Peace Corps Volunteers commonly refer to as the "chicken jello" was a welcome change.

This year's pickles, shredded beets, and spicy carrots.

Rolled cabbage pastries, walnut pastries, and apples baked with rose-petal jam and sour cherries. No vegan changes there, just classic Maria goodness.

Desert of boiled rice with sugar, fresh orange juice, orange zest, and white raisins. Usually this dish is prepared sans orange deliciousness and with milk, instead of water as a cooking agent.

And at the end of the day...Fedorița and I know our place in the kitchen organizing and washing, organizing and drying, organizing and re-shelving the dishes. The presence of a dishwasher in this house would actually have meant that she and I would have spent far less time together. O iubesc matușika mea!

Unwilling to be disappointed

With the planning complete, my guides to working with youth thoroughly adorned in sticky notes, and diplomas for participation printed by my colleague, I headed south this week to help two fellow volunteers facilitate a youth experience exchange.

For the youth from these two villages, we planned an exchange that would quite intentionally direct them to clear action plans in the projects they have already selected. One group has a problem, but is seeking an appropriate solution. The other has a solution that needs to be fine-tuned for optimum success and sustainability. By mixing the groups and conducting two separate activities (one for each of the respective projects, in their respective stages of development), we hoped to expose both groups to tools appropriate for both needs. And finally, end the evening with a small disco-tech, as requested by all the involved parties.

The hour before we were to depart from one village to the other, I quickly lost track of the number of phone calls my colleague, Zach, was fielding. Partner teacher. School director. Bus driver. Youth. Until finally, despite our best intentions, we had to resign to the decision by the school district to cancel all extracurricular activities in the region due to the poor weather conditions (something Zach and I had been ignoring all day, unwilling to admit that the event might be in danger).

We allowed ourselves a few moments of despair, but I absolutely refuse to be disappointed about this site-visit. And the youth exchange WILL happen shortly after the holidays.

Zach is a volunteer in the Health Education in Schools and Communities program. This means his program manager assigned him to partners at both the school and local health center. In Zach's first six months at site, he's also began working with partners at the social cantina, a kind of soup kitchen for elderly members of the community. I learned so much about the Peace Corps experience of my health education colleagues by spending this day and a half in his village. I think they have the best of both worlds: a set schedule and routine at the school, plus flexibility to build capacity and meet the needs of the communities through the health centers.

For more on what it means to be a health education volunteer in Peace Corps Moldova, check out part one and part two of Zach's recent discussion on this.

Maria: A Theatrical Performance

We are scrubbing the house inch-by-inch, as we prepare to host our praznic, next Saturday.

One the things Maria's been advocating for is some serious curtain washing. Almost with out fail, she hasn't been able to enter a room without looking up, saying we need to wash the curtains and vacuum the ceiling.

After dinner last night, and her evening tea, we pulled the clean curtains from the line and headed to my bedroom to re-hang them.

"Melissa, I'm going to go up there, and you hand me the curtains," she said as she stepped onto my bed, then maneuvered the old radiator like it was her last step to the summit of K2, and finally stood in the window ceil. Her frame is just the perfect height, as she was able to stand in the window ceil without hitting her head. One might say it was her custom built stage...

By this point, there are three of us in the room, including a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer with whom my host mother is fascinated. He is a Russian speaker. We talk and joke for a few minutes in the way only PCVs and host country nationals from Moldova can, a ridiculous mix of Romanian, Russian, and English languages. Then Maria begins to praise her work for the day, and call for recognition.

"Very nice. Look Melissa, now you won't be able to see anything from the street, and no one from the street can look inside at us." She said from behind the curtains, her fingers fastening the last clips at the top of the curtain being the only evidence she was there at all.

Already having a case of the giggles, I took her bait for play, "Thank you, Maria! But are you sure you don't want to stay up there and do a little show? I mean, I'll go call the neighbors and have them stand in the street for theater night!"

And then there was silence. Silence. My colleague and I exchanged mutual glances that whimpered embarrassment and "oh no, she didn't think that was funny."

But Maria is rarely one to miss a punch line. As I squirmed uncomfortably for three seconds that passed like an hour on a crowded mini-bus, she was behind the curtain scheming up her next move. One that included just the right amount of gesture, the appropriate words in the most appropriate language, and something she could pull off without laughing throughout the execution.

The result was one perfect theatrical performance including exactly one gesture, one word, and one language. Bold enough to induce hilarity, yet short enough that she could wear a smile as she did it and laugh all she wanted when she successfully completed it.

Her gesture? Pushing the curtains open with both hands as she held a sassy pose, still standing squarely in the window ceil. Not one bit shy either!

Her word and language? An ethusiastically delivered, Russian "hello"..."Здравствуй!"

Did she laugh afterwards? Whole heartedly... as did we.

Winter Work

Beautiful shots like this really are a part of winter. Despite the cold, it's almost always post-card perfect during a Moldovan winter.

Work life can be a little more difficult in winter, January is packed with holidays, offices like mine are cold, and because it gets dark so early, we go home much earlier. As such, I made a list of the major projects I'm planning to tackle this winter. I freely encourage your questions as to how they progress.

[+] Children's center programming: In my town, there is a center for children whose families are not able to care for them. The children aren't orphans, per say, because the idea is that after a few months the children can move back home. My sitemate and I are going to spend some time getting to know this center's ins-and-outs. After doing a bit of research on similar centers, my hypothesis is that this center isolates these kids from the rest of the community. After doing some investigating, my sitemate and I are seriously interested in helping them initiate a peer mentor program (think big brothers/big sisters) with other youth in the community. 

[+] Defining the role of youth service providers: Another service provider was added to the mix this week. The phone call I received this week went something like this: "Hello, is your name Melissa? I am the new director of the youth center. When can you come show me around the center?"

[+] Spreading youth council goodness: This comes in many parts. Next week, I travel down south to help two volunteers facilitate an "experience exchange" between their two youth groups. For as much as I travel to this southeastern district, I'd say soon the bus drivers and I will be on a pretty solid acquaintance. In January, a few other volunteers are coming to my site to observe our youth council elections. After that, I'll head to another youth group in central Moldova (hopefully with some of my volunteers), to continue spreading the benefits of volunteerism.

[+] Reading good books, drinking hot wine, and and attending lots and lots of holiday parties....

Because he wasn't going to celebrate...

Lemon bars are absolutely not a Jewish tradition...just plain tasty.

WORLD AIDS DAY

Somewhere around December 1, 2009, a member of the youth council read about World AIDS Day events on the internet and wanted to see something done here, in our town. Not that an informational campaign isn't useful at anytime, but due to the lateness of the request, the idea never caught on at the council...the moment passed. Moreover, the youth council members would have struggled to put together a campaign on an issue they themselves knew very little about. 

Thus, I am happy to report the success of World AIDS Day 2010, a three-part story.

Part One: Getting Informed

Peace Corps applicants are told that they will probably work in HIV/AIDS prevention at some point during their service, no matter the field of work. It's a worldwide Peace Corps initiative. But in Moldova, due to strict regulations regarding what can be taught in the classroom on the subject, it isn't exactly an area where we are encouraged to seek work. 

Thus, my politically correct strategy for getting the youth informed on the issue was to call in a third-party expert. Tinerii pentru Dreptul la Viață (Youth for the Right to Life), an organization from a neighboring city, is an organization with which we were already acquainted from our mutual participation in a human trafficking prevention event. 

Why it took a political loop hole for me to consider calling in a Moldovan expert to speak to Moldovan youth on this issue, I have no idea. Corina presented the information better, more fluently, and more creatively than I ever could. She's done this seminar hundreds of times, and it shows in all the best ways.  I particularly appreciated how she took the time to describe every word and definition in the acronyms HIV/SIDA. As we discussed immunity with the group, she clarified her point using an umbrella. A normal functioning umbrella protects us from the rain. A damaged umbrella, like a deficient immune system, fails to protect us.

By the end of the seminar the group felt comfortable with Corina and the information she was sharing. We sat around the table and I watched a quizzical look come across an eighth grade girl's face...

"Miss Corina, I have a question...where did the HIV come from?" She managed.
"Well, there are some theories," Corina started, before a tenth grader interjected.
"From the homosexuals of course!" The tenth grader stated.
"But, where...I mean from whom did the homosexuals get it in the beginning?" The eight grader fired back.

Watching Moldovans react to subjects like these is fascinating. In America, we have (mostly) sensitized ourselves to these issues. The generation of Moldovan youth I work with is just starting to question if sensitization is something they want for their country, for their culture. Guess what? They don't all agree.

Part Two: Preparing the Information

The day before World AIDS day, volunteers prepared materials for the street campaign. While some painted signs, others worked on finding a maxim to post around town, I translated a fact sheet to be printed, and everyone got quizzed by yours truly on the facts.

Not only did I ask the youth who attended the previous week's seminar to repeat pertinent facts, but we also worked through a basic HIV/AIDS Quiz I found online. Between the quiz and the expert opinion, there was still at least one volunteer believing that HIV is contractible from mosquitoes. But to be honest, as long as she understood all the other ways you can definitely contract the disease, I'm happy to hear the group argue and repeat the facts.

Part Three: Disseminating the Information

   

Finally, on World AIDS Day 2010, we took to the snowy streets with our signs, brochures, fact sheets, ribbons, and positive energy. Since the snow seemed to fall heavier by the minute, I can't say this is our most successful campaign (in terms of numbers of people we actually spoke with), but we stayed out there until all our materials had been distributed. When I got home, my host mom said that thing again...

"Melissa, your eyes are smiling! Where have you been?!"

This perfectly normal thing I do

My absolute favorite Moldovan hobby is called "going as a guest" or "plec in oaspetia." Some families (like the Popa Family) actually get upset when I don't invite myself over often enough. Yes, inviting myself is a perfectly normal thing I've learned to do. And...after separately running into three different members of this family, last week, and trying to explain why I haven't been to their house in a while, I decided to make the call.

But there is a catch. Guests should never go empty handed. In the summer, I might take a basket of apricots or bake a sour-cherry pie. Last winter, this family got introduced to a slew of American baked goods...Aurel digs banana nut muffins, and if her mother isn't in the room, Aura can eat five rice krispy treats really really fast. 

On this occasion, I baked nothing and brought nothing we grew in our garden. Instead, I picked up a box of chocolates and a bottle of Moldovan champagne at the corner store so that we could celebrate my Mom's birthday. Make no mistake, I don't mean my host mom, Maria. I mean MY MOM. Maammmica! This too, is a perfectly normal thing, in Moldova. I took a bottle of bubbly to another family's house to celebrate someone's birthday that couldn't be with us today.

Mom, the ladies of the Popa family (and the walking Kansas adversitsement, Yoel) wish you a wonderful birthday. Health. Happiness. Everything you wish in the coming year!

Obligatory Thanksgiving Post

The best job in the world. A supportive family that is one member larger than it was this time last year. Dozens of  loving Moldovan friends and family members. Phenomenal friends, both old and new. A beautiful language. This day of thanks!

Youth Consultancy

My role in Moldova is changing again. There was the "try to fit in stage," followed by the "now you fit in and try to work with what you are given stage," but now, it's all about delivering change using what I've learned. Bring it on.

To my absolute pleasure, this transition doesn't just affect my work here at site, but more and more I am taking on a consultancy role, helping other PCVs working with youth in Moldova. I am writing the chapters of a book every time I respond to emails from Zach and Cammy. They are both working with brand new youth groups, trying to identify missions, solve community problems, and keep kids motivated. I do not even begin to claim to have all the answers, but it is incredibly rewarding to be able to help them prevent mistakes that I made (or continue to make). Also, as a colleague doing similar work on another topic recently pointed out, I am finally given the avenue for organizing all my thoughts and experiences. 

In a sense, this work is also why I was down south last week at Jen's site. Her partner has a group of youth that are too old to be direct beneficiaries of their children's center, but are quite interested in staying involved and developing new skills and understandings. I offer up the session we put together for them as an example of what it is I do in Moldova, it's been a while since I wrote about something other than birthday parties and my awesome host family. 

The Afternoon:

1) Evaluation of the group's Halloween party the previous week: What was the best element? What was the weakest element? What will they change if they do it again next year? Since this was one of their first major events...what was it like to work as a team?

2) Team-building activity: The human knot. Moldovans are not afraid of physical contact and have few personal space boundaries when compared with Americans, so it's an easy, and fun activity. What happened during the activity? Did they have to work as a team or could they succeed individually? Which was more important, listening or leading?

3) Building on their interests: The problem tree method (had I not prepared for this the day of, I probably would have chose a more asset-based activity, but I sadly fell for my old stand-by). After making a list of four youth problems in their village, the youth chose to attack teachers' vulgar vocabulary in the classroom. 

This is the most original problem I've ever discussed with a group of youth in Moldova. I was thrilled that they didn't chose litter in the street or poverty. Though, I cannot comment on the actual extent of the bad language problem and it should be noted that eventually it was admitted that possibly pupils' behavior is a contributing factor of the vulgar vocabulary. Anyway, moving on...

With the problem tree, we put the problem on the trunk, then address the visible consequences of the problem in the branches. This is the easiest part and usually takes only minutes to complete. Then, we move back to the bottom of the tree and identify the causes, or "roots" of the problem. This takes longer and just like always, the girls in this group were not all in agreement about the cause of the problem. 

4) Identifying solutions: Once our tree was developed enough, and the youth were focused again on the causes of the problem, we began to identify possible solutions. This is as far as I was able to lead them during this session, but next time they meet, the director of this center will continue with them to analyze the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats (SWOT) of their two proposed solutions: A) Writing a letter to the school director and B) Doing a pupil's campaign for good classroom behavior and teacher appreciation activities. I wish them the best of luck and can't wait to hear how it goes!

All in a day's work...

I'm down south working at my friend Jen's site for a couple days. She works at a center for kids that is funded by the American NGO "Keystone." Today, our mission was to teach a smidgen of English, and play a new game. 

Duck, Duck, GOOSE!

Onward

This week, there were a lot of sharp turns in the road, some more expected than others. But in any case, the week is finally going to end tomorrow and I think I can say with confidence that all the week's developments actually lend a straighter road for the remainder of my service.

As my mother is fond of telling me, "That's life, not just the Peace Corps, and not just in Moldova."

Duckling's Ball

Last night I attended the "Duckling's Ball" at the local high school. In this case, duckling is a metaphor for the tenth grade class, who entered the high school last month. I felt like I belonged in high school every time I giggled as the "ducklings from class 10A" were called to the stage, but the whole event is rather steeped in tradition and esteem. It truly is a rite of passage.

On a semantic note, I'd like to explain that this ball did not include gowns and king's of Siam dancing the night away with English teachers. The event actually took place in a theater, and students from the tenth grade class performed songs, dances, poems, and skits.

As I sat in a room packed with adolescents, flash backs from every high school pep rally came whizzing by. I liked high school a lot, but it's probably best for humanity that all good things come to an end.

Embarrassingly generous, much appreciated

*Last post ever about birthdays, see 'holiday' posts for more*

Here's my PCV colleague Craig putting some remarkable mayonnaise art on the little tomato and eggplant stacks. My idea for a simple, American-style dessert gathering with the neighbors turned into a full-blown Moldovan masa. Maria was having none of that American nonsense this time around! Instead, she dedicated about a day and a half work to preparing this meal.

The menu went something like this: cheese pies, potato pies, chicken/pineapple/olive/cheese salad, beet salad, cabbage stuffed bitter-peppers, smashed beans, walnuts in about every dish, walnut pie, a roast chicken with potato wedges, adjika, those tomato and eggplant stacks, a dozen beautifully crafted pepper flowers, and homemade cake.

I can't really put into English words how much I appreciated this event. As I told the guests in my toast, last year I was in Chisinau, with other Peace Corps Volunteers, on my birthday. I thought those people were my friends. But all day my Moldovan neighbors called me to wish me well. So for over a year, it's been decided that I would do something with them to show how much I appreciate getting to know them.

Though, for all my efforts to make this evening modest (failed) and as little work as possible for my host mom (utterly failed), my friends and neighbors still managed to trump me. In the photo below is a snapshot of the beautiful table cloth eight women pitched into to buy for me. EIGHT! As they hoisted it above their heads and started whooping in high pitched tones, I knew what was coming next.

"Dear Melissa, we probably won't be able to give you this at your wedding. So we wanted to do it now," Svetlana said.

"It's for your home someday," Eugenia said.

"Get married soon!" Aliona lectured, again.

"To remember us at every special occasion," Maria said.

"I don't know what Mrs. Svetlana is talking about, I'm coming to America when you use this table cloth," Fedorita said, winking as she did.

What's left to say? I love Moldova. I love Moldova. I love Moldova.

Semi-surprise birthday

There was a small, modest, birthday event planned for me today at work. As per Moldovan custom, I planned it. It was to involve a double-batch of chocolate chip cookies, a game of spoons, and hopefully, a hora or two. As we were walking to my center, a fellow PCV said to me, what if they surprise you with something more. Immediately I said, "no, they won't do that," and backed it up with a short list of reasons why. 

But of course, he was right. There ended up being a far from modest table arranged by my partner and some of the other youth. There were balloons, notes, flowers, and a delicious cake (mulțumesc frumos Doamna Brashovsky și Alina!). Check out this video I managed to capture while the youth council sang a Romanian song, equivalent to "happy birthday."

By the way, we did eventually get to that game of spoons...we literally played until someone's fingers bled! They are a little intense!

Friday night fun

People tell me blog is "so positive," but to be honest, what is the alternative? I love Peace Corps life. Particularly, how far it takes me back to social square number one, and how deliberate my effort to establish friendships needs to be. Thus, my relationship with the Popa family (neighbors, dear friends, and host family to the newest Peace Corps Volunteer in town), is one of the most rewarding fruits of my service.

On Friday night, friends, colleagues, and a couple extra Peace Corps Volunteers crowded into the Popa family's dining room to celebrate our sitemate's birthday. That's him, Yoel, with the fork. If anyone left this table hungry, my mother would have told them it was his/her own fault. This table was literally overflowing with kebabs-style chicken, salads, bread, sliced meats, and veggies. My contribution: a double batch of lemon bars. Happy birthday, Yoel!

To my absolute pleasure, the party turned to song and Aurel to his accordion. Now, Aurel isn't exactly someone you'd pay to play at a wedding party, but I would most certainly drop a few coins in his pitcher if I saw him at the local pub. If not for his music, then the way he wears his music on his face. As if the notes aren't quite conveying his efforts, he manages to illustrate the rest in the furrow of his brow and the upward and downward turn of his smile. In this clip, he's just warming up you see...so when he says "my repid" and starts over, he's really begging the rest of us to pick-up the pace. The song title translates to "this is my life, and I like it this way."

Again, one of my favorite traditions at these celebrations is the long winded, adjective bloated, speech giving. For Yoel, I plagiarized a toast from the last birthday party we had in my neighborhood, wishing him "one horse cart full of good health, because if you have that, then you can have at least two horse carts of happiness." Yes, please, roll you eyes now. 

The man in the blue sweater really pulled out all the stops though. Explaining the family tree to the extent that Yoel could be called a legitimate nephew of the family, he told Yoel, as many Moldovans do at these events, that he is waiting for the next generation of nieces and nephews. Better him than me!

Yoel and Aurel have literally become "buddies." It's something I've heard around town, but finally observed after all the other guest had left and my attempts to help Angela clean up resulted in her re-setting the table for us. Aurel playfully messes with Yoel's hair in that "noogie" kinda way. They give each other high-fives when they make jokes, and slap each other on the back. If Yoel learns to play the accordion, he'd go down in volunteer history.

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The members of the Popa family are recurring characters on this blog, you can learn more about my experience with them here, here, and here. 

Proud owner of a thesaurus

To explain just how compelling acquiring a thesaurus really is, let’s back up a step or two.

In Moldova, we celebrate “Our Language Day” in late August. However, the further you get from major cities, the stronger the sentiment gets that “Our Language” is not Romanian, but rather Moldoveneasca. Rather than enter my two-cents directly, I’ll tell you this: Peace Corps pays for my Romanian language instruction (thank you tax-payers!). But it is also no secret, that when I spend time in the village, ‘b’ sounds are replaced grunting ‘g’ sounds, and many nouns are called by their Russian names.

On the whole, Moldova operates as a bi-lingual country. Some people only speak Russian, some people only speak Romanian, and some people speak Russian in state matters, but an entirely different, albeit Turkish-descending language in their daily lives. But overall, most people speak both Russian and Romanian as first languages.

I have been to Romania, heard the difference between pronunciations in Romania and Moldova, but my short time in Bucharest was not nearly enough to help me understand my unanswered question: Does the Romanian language in Romania have a higher word-count than the Romanian language as it is spoken in Moldova? This is not really a question I want anyone else’s opinion about; rather I need to experience it for myself. Too often when this question is discussed, political and historical opinions fester in the responses.

I started asking this question a few months ago when I grew increasingly bored of the word “interesting” as buy-in-bulk response to anything. Someone tells you about his or her day, “that’s interesting.” Someone describes a new fashion/recipe/experience, “how interesting!” Someone discovers a new store/product/way to get even cheaper mobile service, “Oooh, interesting.”

So, in July I hunted down some synonyms for this pesky adjective. However, the only one that truly gathered support in any true conversation was “captivating.” Now, it too is growing a little old. Thus, when I discovered the thesaurus, I immediately dived in and found the following synonyms: captivating, attractive, nice, bizarre, strange, and unusual. This week, I’m going to make some honest attempt at substituting “interesting” with “nice” and possibly “unusual” to see what the response is.

But if I haven’t lost readers completely, I’d like to explain just one more challenge in my attempts to express my thoughts and feelings as accurately as possible in this language. Since I found the thesaurus and started using it, nearly every adjective in the book that I searched for a way to strengthen lists “unusual” as a possibility. Synonyms for unusual: interesting, captivating, abnormal, eccentric, fantastic, hard-working, rare, remarkable, unused, mixed-up.

What does this say about the thoughts I am trying to express and my attempts to express them more accurately? Probably that I am trying to strengthen my vocabulary in all the wrong places…but curiosity is a pleasure and a poison. 

Reporting Time

I'm a little confused about what to do with this blog space. Of late, Google is telling me my readers are Mac users, Google Chrome users, and in Moldova. In short, somehow this blog has become more popular with fellow PCVs than with it's intended audience of friends and family back home. And last Saturday, a colleague quoted one of my posts back to me (which was awesome). For now, I'm going to keep providing the same kind of content I have been, keeping Peace Corps' third goal in mind. But I'm open to suggestions.

    

I don't have an original idea for a post this time, but it just so happens that it is the end of the quarter and fiscal year, and I am spending my Monday night completing the beloved "Volunteer Report Form" for my program manager. I'll share here what I came up with for my "lessons learned entry." 

    

Over the past few months I have learned to be a bit more assertive. Now that I have the language abilities to offer new ideas, there is no reason to hold back. Furthermore, my relationship with my youth council is developed enough that they trust my ideas and give them honest consideration. 

     

Often, the youth council decides to have important discussions on the spot, with the goal of making a decision quickly. In the past few months, I have tried to slow down the conversation and help them develop more creative and effective ways of doing things. 

For example, in September we were responsible for advertising an event with another organization, Medicii Lumii, from Balti. The youth started to discuss the advertisment strategy by assigning someone to the task, using the same methods we always use in promoting events. I slowed the conversation and forced the youth to be more creative using a metaphor (like my program manager's use of the grapevine during last summer's PST).

After we brainstormed a list of potential advertising strategies, I assigned each person one of the strategies. I gave the youth a piece  of paper and asked them to draw a flower with the following conditions: the roots needed to represent the support/permission we would need to implement that strategy, the stem needed to represent the strategy itself, and the petals the positive outcomes that strategy could provide. After they presented "the idea garden," we chose a set of fundraising strategies that would lead to different outcomes. For example, we didn't pick two methods that would both be aimed at students, but rather a set of strategies aimed at attracting an audience from a variety of age brackets. 

My ideas work, and the youth council listens. I have learned that I just have to speak up and slow down the snap-decision making the youth council has become accustomed to with tradition.

Count 'em!

The transfer of skills and knowledge continues at the local youth council…Today we held an open house, inviting all youth in town to come see what we are up to, and what we are all about. The open house idea is not a new one, in terms of volunteer recruitment, at our organization. But the fact that we got it right today is a big accomplishment for the new leadership team. Last fall, we did okay in recruitment. In the spring, we pretty much failed, bringing in only one new face to the open house. Today’s record total (at least in my service, with this generation of youth leaders)—19 potential new volunteers in our town. Woot!

To get that many new people to our center and that many shoes at our doorstep, we stepped up our advertising scheme a bit. Two days ago, I met the vice-president of the youth council and went to her old elementary/middle-school and spoke with students in three classes. Our excellent turn-out means that a full third of the students we spoke to were convinced to come today.

Of course, everyone already knows that coming to the center means making new friends and having fun…here’s a clip from a trust-building exercise that turned into an abdominal workout for those who couldn’t stop laughing.

And the other reasons youth gave for coming to our open house: to learn public speaking, to use my free-time effectively, to learn about youth development, to work as a volunteer.

YIKES! I think they are going to like it here…

"If not you, then who will break the chain of trafficking?"

This morning my youth council, several NGOs from a neighboring city, and a social-theater club from another district hit the stage in an effort to inform the locals about the dangers of human trafficking, and how to avoid it.

Though our rainy, Sunday morning program didn't draw the biggest crowd possible, those who did come, were both thoroughly informed and entertained. I'm glad I had the chance to be a part of this event, because our primary partner in the event wants to take to the road, visiting other Peace Corps Volunteer communities throughout our region of Moldova. Next month, I am tasked with helping coordinate that process. Having seen one of these events, now firsthand, I can only sing the praises of these organizations.

Though, I must say, the five year-old girl singing "My heart is full of longing, my parents both went away...its full of longing and can't hold anymore," was rather difficult to listen to...because it's the truth. Migration and trafficking tendencies in Moldova leave too many families torn apart.

I particularly enjoyed the final act, a social-theater production by a club of high school students known as ANTIVIRUS. The group portrayed the impact of trafficking on not only the victims, but also the families left behind. Their main message was displayed overhead on a projector, "Life is a battle, so fight for yourself!" Those young actors are literally attempting to "be the change [they] want to see in the world," or at least, in their country. Bravo lor! Good for them!

I had plans, then suc happened

I really did have good intentions about LSAT studying and email writing tonight. But how could I turn down an invite from my favorite neighbors to help make the last batch of this year's adjika (a spicy tomato sauce)? The whole process starts with tomato juice ('suc') pressing, and as you can see in the photo, Aura and I took the lead on that little project. Later, we ended up pressing hot and sweet peppers, garlic, and a ginger-like root too. It took all night!

Getting to know this family has been one of the highlights of my service (as if I haven't already explained that here, here, and here). Through our tears of laughter tonight, Doina, the oldest daughter, put into words exactly how reciprocal this relationship has been. "Melissa," she started, "even if I'm in a bad mood and I think I don't want to see anyone, when you come we end up giggling and I forget about everything else!" If only you could have all been there to see her point around the room and mark the ridiculousness of the evening. She was sewing plastic sacks together to haul the corn in from the fields tomorrow, on little Singer machine, while her kid sister walked around the house with shaving cream on her hand because she supposed it would sooth the hot pepper burns she received from the juicing process, and their shirtless father somehow manages to nail every single punch line in-between the adjika taste-testing.

So, I guess the LSAT studying will still be there in the morning. People keep asking me how much longer I have in Moldova. I've heard it so much it makes me want to scream A WHOLE YEAR, STOP ASKING! But, I guess it's actually less than that now. At the risk of sounding sentimental, today was a really great fall day for my book of Moldova memories. 

Oh, and in this last photo is my new site-mate Yoel. He happens to be living with this awesome family. I don't think he was much into the juice pressing, but he does impress my host mom by wearing that fancy suit everyday. That's Doina and Angela sitting in front of him...they are reading the fancy article published about him in the local newspaper. The article is 40% about Yoel's awesome experience thus far with his host family. How's that for warm and fuzzies?

Fall musings of a PCV

This is a photo of the largest Church in the center of Chisinau that I snapped last Friday (maybe my first photo ever in Chisinau?). I was sitting on a bench people watching and waiting for my friend, Mihaela, to arrive. Mihaela used to be the president of the Local Youth Council, but recently started her first year at the state university in Chisinau, where she’s majoring in accounting. Since I was in the big city, I decided it would be a good time to take out my new student out for a congratulatory treat. We are literally, one in the same! I took her to the French pastry shop, and told her to order whatever she wanted. She promptly skipped the pastry and went for the gelato—tiramisu to be exact. I knew I liked that girl....

What I thought would be a short afternoon rendezvous soon turned into a long-almost-late-to-the-next-engagement-kinda-day. I think I got a taste of what parents go through when dropping off the kid to freshman year [whoa!]. After the gelato, we hit up a few different book stands on the main street, scouting out a French-Romanian dictionary, bought a birthday gift for one of her three roommates, and then found ourselves looking at a map because apparently, freshman orientation in Moldova just isn’t like the overzealous hand-holding on American campuses, “Melissa,” Mihaela wimpered, “I don’t know where my dorm is!”

The rest of Friday and Saturday were filled with my own version of trick-or-treat through the Peace Corps Office: Mid-service medical exam, language exam, dental appointment, program manager chat, committee meetings, and …oh yea, a [American] football game!

I waited all week for this game. The crisp fall air has me suddenly yearning for the fight song [Go Cougs!], touchdowns, and wearing jeans again. 

But I guess others even took the chance to catch up on some other American hobbies thanks to a recent arrival of gag rags [Yup, that was more than enough time spent hearing about Chelsea Clinton’s nuptials!]

As fall is most definitely here and cliche change is in the air, it too is present in the Peace Corps Moldova community. This was my first round of weekend meetings with the new volunteers participating, and I think I have to quit calling them "new." It is going to be a ridiculously wild next couple of months--we're talking trainings, orientations, and meet 'n greets GALORE--but I'm really excited to be working with some of the recent additions to our teams. Fresh faces. Fresh ideas. But most of all, fresh enthusiasm. Wish us luck!

Free hugs

It's simple. "Free hugs" is exactly what we did. 

Positive attitudes. Positive promotion of our organization.

My favorite place in my favorite host country

I'm overflowing with love for Moldova after two days of fresh village air, delicious grapes, and honest work. On day one, Fedorita and I headed out to prepare the gate and fence for it's first paint job in over ten years. As we worked, we received the standard "May God help you" salutation, to which, the answer is always, "yes, with God." About every third person delivering this greeting turned out to be a cousin. Got to love the village! Whenever I go there, I know we are going to work hard and laugh harder.

For instance, as the sun eventually slipped away from view on the first day, Bunica Liuba (a recurring character on this blog) heated up a pot of water for me to wash my feet. Of course, I was told to go first, and as I wrapped up, Fedorita told me not to look for the towel, "if you dry your feet, you dry away your luck," she said.

Well, Bunica Liuba was not in any mood to let me stand there on the cement with wet feet and before I knew it her hands were flying in the air, only to fall quickly to my feet, which she dried while exclaiming, "the girl is too lucky as it is! Let me dry her feet!"

Wedding Day/Night/Early morning!

My partner, Nina, picked me up in her boyfriend's car and we headed to a village I've only been to once, to a home I've never seen, full of people I'd never met. Yet, despite Nina being the only mutual connection to any of this, the bride welcomed me to not only her wedding, but her wedding party. Nina served as Cristina's "vornicica de onare," a role similar to a maid of honor. Months ago, Nina asked Cristina if I could tag along and see a Moldovan wedding from the inside out. 

And so it was set, I helped the rest of the girls dress the bride, decorate cars for the motorcade, destroy beautiful roses to create bags of petals we needed for tossing over the love-birds at various points in the night, create the arch of flowers (with the ones that survived) for the couple to walk through, and welcome the guests with a voice-snatching screech that accompanied our hora dancing.

Oh, and I also was given a special corsage to wear. If you knew what you were looking for, it literally proclaimed, "Hello, I'm Melissa, a very unmarried, eligible, single young-lady." Opa!

It also turned out that my camera was the only one present for most of this 18-hour experience, so I really didn't see it all night. One of the groom's friends just kind of took it over until the battery gave out sometime between the "first meal" and the "undressing of the bride." This slideshow then, is mostly of his creation, but is unfortunately incomplete.

      

As things wrapped up around 4 am this morning, we could barely walk to the car. All night long we danced, and we danced, and we danced. Unlike many American weddings, it would have been a huge taboo to shake the shoes off under the table. 

Overall, I must say the experience was incredibly memorable, a perfect example of everything I love and still quite don't understand about Moldova all at once. I wish Cristina and Viorel all the best. 

For scoop on the religious part of most Moldovan wedding's, see my previous post Sergiu's Church Wedding

Election Day!

I'm so proud of the youth council, and my partner in particular. Though it was hard, took three hours, and involved more than one re-vote, we elected a brand new leadership team. And of course, all of that came AFTER our discussion about roles and responsibilities for the president, vice-president, and treasurer. Only after the roles were defined did my partner ask for nominations for each position, and candidates evaluated their own ability to succeed based on the list of responsibilities. They are the best! Furthermore, this year's election was well attended, recognized the development of a few select volunteers over the past year, and re-newed the sense of ownership the youth have over their own representation. Congratulations CLT!